The 5 best things our food writers ate in 2024

Myriel, named after the kind bishop in Victor Hugo’s novel “Les Misérables,” has nothing to do with the provenance of the chef and everything to do with the meaning of the bishop’s actions. In “Les Misérables,” Myriel’s kindness is initially lost on Jean Valjean, the protagonist, who spends the rest of his life returning the favor.

It took time to truly appreciate what Karyn Tomlinson had built with the small St. Paul restaurant she opened three years ago. The farm-to-table narrative settled in eventually, and today the food has never been better. In late summer and early fall, I returned for meals that showcased local ingredients in their prime, like the jewels of sweet tomatoes on toast and profoundly nuanced broth she coaxes from onions. The duck — one of Myriel’s mainstays — is probably the finest in town; not just because of its breed, but the way the skin is crisp and beautifully rendered. I’d make my infrequent pilgrimages to the restaurant solely for Tomlinson’s apple pie, but found myself falling even harder for her take on French toast (best described as a bread and butter pudding, somehow made artisanal), paired with an intensely umami koji ice cream. (Jon Cheng)

470 Cleveland Av. S., St. Paul, myrielmn.com

It’s hard not to be smitten with the open hearth kitchen at Black Duck, Jason Sawicki’s northeast Minneapolis restaurant — and that’s even before tasting what’s coming out of it. It’s dinner and a show (with flames!) under one cozy roof.

Naturally, a portion of the menu is dedicated to hearth fare — fish, duck, steak, pork chop, a mushroom terrine and this showstopper of a chicken. A half chicken is brined, smoked in spices and then crisped in the oven before being nestled on a bed of beet-horseradish sauce and cabbage and topped with chimichurri. The beet-horseradish sauce adds a jolt of color and flavor that complements not just the mouthwateringly tender chicken, but also the herbaceous chimichurri and bursts of cabbage. Together, it’s pure bliss. And a relative bargain at $35.50; it can easily serve two.

What I like most about Black Duck, though, is its ability to be the restaurant you want it to be. Night out with friends? Make a meal out of drinks, another bright spot, thanks to bar manager Ra’Jean Jones, and small plates. (The pierogi is mandatory.) A simple weeknight out? Order a smash burger — or a duck burger if you’re feeling fancy — fries and a beer. Special occasion? Choose from any of the hearth fare, and add the stunner of a Caesar salad, featuring smoked whitefish, and a side of vegetables. Dining solo? Grab a ringside seat by the kitchen and you’ll have plenty of company.

As cozy as Black Duck is on chilly winter nights, I can’t wait to see what the warm weather brings with that supersized patio. What a neighborhood gem. (Nicole Hvidsten)

2900 NE. Johnson St., Mpls., blackduckmpls.com

As we reported this summer, affogato is popping up everywhere. After all, the Italian treat in which hot espresso is poured over ice cream is a way to have two favorite post-meal staples, coffee and dessert, all in one.

The one at Cardamom, in particular, is what dreams are made of. The restaurant from chef Daniel del Prado at the Walker Art Center serves their affogato ($12), available at both the coffee counter and in the dining room, with pistachio gelato from the local brand Little Bird. It then gets piled with a hunky and chunky “pistachio butter,” a blend of condensed milk and pistachios, to affix nutty, crunchy, sweet and gooey deliciousness. With every scoop, this refined version reads like a grown-up sundae that is not only decadent, but unexpectedly empowering, as if to say, “why should kids get all the fun?” (Nancy Ngo)

725 Vineland Pl., Mpls., cardamommpls.com

There’s something specifically Minnesotan about the brand of pride St. Paul takes in being home for Joan’s in the Park. We know there’s something spectacular in our midst, but instead of shouting from the Highland hilltops, we’re just grateful to share time and space with this beauty.

The restaurant has continually evolved since Joan Schmitt and Susan Dunlop opened the doors of their dream restaurant in 2011. It had been too long since my last visit, and on one perfect night, I had a chance to fall in love all over again with this restaurant’s vision, food and hospitality.

The tasting menu unfolds with choices for each of the four courses and expert service that ensures every table dines with the level of attention they desire. The food is simple, comforting — and mind blowing. A simple dish of shrimp in citrus broth was enough to make me think of every other shrimp I’ve ever encountered and how none so perfectly captured this crustaceous pinnacle of plump, ocean juiciness.

From start to finish, it was quietly, simply excellent. (Joy Summers)

631 Snelling Av. S., St. Paul, joansinthepark.com

When I finally made time to stop at the roadside barbecue joint I’d been passing back-and-forth on Highway 7 while reporting on restaurants in the far western suburbs, nothing could have prepared me for the total scene that is Buddy Boy Fine Barbeque.

It was a Saturday, mid-afternoon, height of summer, and a band was setting up on stage next to the beer window, the stands dishing out braised meats, and the massive smoker. We were lucky enough to arrive at the right time to grab a picnic table, one we didn’t want to let go of as the night really got started.

Inside, a former gas station that’s now a fancier-than-expected dining room, was packed; cocktails shaking up at the bar, ice cream scooping from another counter. There were so many ways to experience this place, I wanted all of them. Naturally, then, we ordered Buddy’s Sampler, a $135 aluminum hotel pan brimming with every kind of meat these “Minnesota barbecue” pros make: melt-in-your-mouth brisket, pulled pork and smoked turkey; nubs of hot link, a half rack of spare ribs and a beef long rib of caveman proportions; and some citrus, pickled veggies and a single rosemary sprig. They say it feeds seven. That’s an understatement.

The sheer enjoyment of it all almost eclipsed the skill it took to make such a feast. It was the kind of dinner I wouldn’t forget for a long time. Thankfully, I had the leftovers to keep reminding me. (Sharyn Jackson)

8175 Hwy. 7, Minnetrista, buddyboybarbeque.com