One of the standout dishes at northeast Minneapolis’ StepChld might sound like it contains a mismatched swirl of flavors — lavender, nori, shrimp. But those ingredients’ unlikely harmony is a testament to owner and chef Kamal Mohamed’s vision for globally influenced fine dining: playful and personal, boundary-pushing and bold.
Mohamed, an immigrant from Ethiopia who grew up working with his family on their Minneapolis food truck, will close his first full-service restaurant this summer. StepChld ends its run Aug. 24.
“After almost five years, it’s always going to be a part of me, and I’m grateful for the fact that I got to do it,” Mohamed said. “Yeah, it’s gonna hurt, but I think I feel more gratitude than pain right now.”
Mohamed cited risings costs of food, labor and rent, as well as the capacity limitations of StepChld’s snug, 38-seat space.
“It’s more tight than ever before,” Mohamed said. “Those little nuances and subtleties, with only 38 seats, you can’t just charge $30 for a burger. At some point consumers do push back. It makes it difficult to try to fit something that was meant for another time and space.”
An entrepreneur with other food businesses, Mohamed is looking into expanding his health-driven cafe Parcelle, and is meeting individually with his small staff at StepChld to develop new business ideas. Mohamed is no longer involved with StepChld’s neighboring cocktail bar, WildChld.
StepChld’s globally inspired menu is a reflection of Mohamed’s story. Ethiopian berbere spice finds its way into chocolate cake ganache, while dishes like short rib sugo over wide noodles tell deeper tales of history and migration.
A self-taught chef, Mohamed hired others like him, immigrant chefs and aspiring cooks who don’t have culinary degrees but bring unique perspectives and talents to the kitchen. He hopes to use the industry knowledge he’s acquired over the years to help them chart their own courses.
