Hold the mayo: A potato salad recipe that’s perfect for picnics

Potato salad, a signature summer dish, is defined by its maker. My grandmother’s salad was substantially swathed in mayo, while a German aunt crowned hers with crisped bacon and plenty of dill. My neighbor tosses in olives, tomatoes and peppers for a light, bright Italian twist.

It’s one of the easiest dishes to make, but success depends on a few basic tenets — starting with the right potato.

Choose small, firm, waxy potatoes — fingerling, Yukon gold, Yellow Finn or any of those mixed baby potatoes. These all hold their shape when cooked. Avoid russet potatoes; they’re too floury and fall apart. Cut the potatoes to the same size in halves or quarters before cooking to be sure they’re done at the same time.

Cook the potatoes in boiling water that is as salty as the sea. This ensures the potatoes absorb the salt early on so you’re not oversalting after they’re done. Don’t crowd the pot, they need room to bubble away independently.

Watch the pot! Start checking after about 10 minutes. The potatoes should be tender, but not too soft and mushy. Insert a knife into the center; if the potato slips off, it’s done.

Drain the potatoes right away, transfer to a bowl and, while they’re still hot, sprinkle with the vinegar you’re using in the dressing. This ensures they’ll absorb that snap and zing that gives the salad a lift.

Once the potatoes have cooled a bit, dress them with a heavy hand. They take in flavors quickly and can become bland. Toss in the other vegetables and herbs after the potatoes have cooled, so the crisp additions stay crisp. Be sure to taste before serving, adding in vinegar, salt and pepper and red pepper flakes as needed. Make the salad early in the day, then enjoy a slice of Minnesota summer.

Serves 6 to 8.

This light, bright salad relies on a sharp vinaigrette for zing and olives for vigor. No worries about mayonnaise sitting out in the sun. Make it in the morning so the flavors have a chance to marry, and pile on the herbs. From Beth Dooley.

Directions

Put the potatoes into a pot and add enough water to cover by 2 inches; add plenty of salt. (It should taste briny as the sea.) Set over high heat, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and turn into a bowl. Toss the hot potatoes with about 1 tablespoon of the vinegar.

In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining vinegar, mustard and oil. When the potatoes have cooled to room temperature, toss in the vinaigrette, then the onions, olives, tomatoes, peppers, spinach, basil and parsley. Season to taste with salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Allow the flavors to marry for at least an hour before serving. You can make this ahead, cover and refrigerate overnight, but be sure to bring it to room temperature before serving.

Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.