Everything bagel latkes are irresistibly crispy and savory

When it comes to Jewish foods, an everything bagel with a schmear of cream cheese is unquestionably my holy grail — it’s bready, creamy, and full of allium flavor.

The only downside to everything bagels with cream cheese? While they make perfect breakfast, brunch and even lunch fare, they’re just not socially acceptable as a dinner food (despite what my 5-year-old might claim). You simply can’t invite a group of friends over and present them with a glorified bread basket for dinner.

In celebration of Hanukkah, I’ve been thinking a lot about latkes, the traditional dish of crispy potato pancakes cooked in oil. Fried foods are a staple food at Hanukkah, as they represent and commemorate the miracle that occurred when the oil in the Temple lasted for eight whole nights when it should have only lasted one.

As holiday fare, latkes are a food meant to be shared with loved ones, best eaten with a big dollop of sour cream and preferably within minutes of lifting them out of the bubbling oil. Which got me thinking — I might not be able to celebrate the season with an everything bagel for dinner, but I could certainly enjoy a big plate of everything bagel latkes after lighting the Hanukkah menorah. Indeed, bagels with cream cheese and latkes with sour cream have a lot in common: They’re both starchy, crispy, a little oniony and topped with something cool and creamy.

This recipe builds upon a classic latke, which combines shredded potatoes and onions with a binding agent (in this case, an egg and flour). A generous amount of everything bagel spice gets added to the mix, lending an extra-savory note to the dish. Buying store-bought everything bagel spice mix further cuts down on the time, but you can also make your own blend of poppy seeds, sesame seeds, dried onion, dried garlic and flaky salt.

Don’t coat the latkes in everything bagel seasoning. While it might be tempting to add the spice to the exterior of the latke the way the seasoning coats the outside of a bagel, don’t do this — the seasoning blend will burn in the hot oil

Taste your seasoning. Whether you’re using store-bought seasoning or making your own, taste it before adding it to the potato mixture. If it tastes quite salty, you may want to lower the amount of salt initially added to the potato mixture.

Use a food processor. Using a food processor’s shredder attachment greatly cuts down on the prep time and ensures that your latke batter is free of onion-induced tears and bloody knuckles, two byproducts of hand-grating.

Opt for starchy potatoes. Use starchy baking potatoes like Russets rather than waxy potatoes. The starch helps prevent the latke from falling apart when cooking.

Take your time wringing out excess water from the potato and onion mixture. When you think you’ve finally wrung out all the water, wring, wring again.

These latkes are a breakfast treat when topped with a poached egg, or if you want to make more of a substantial meal out of them, you can also serve them with a bit of smoked salmon. You could also top them with crème fraîche, chives and salmon roe for fancy cocktail party fare. Given the savory flavors of the everything bagel spice mix, I’d skip the applesauce.

Makes 10 to 12 latkes; serves 4 as a side.

Leftovers can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to four days. Reheat in a 300-degree oven until warmed through and crisp. From Lauren Stockey.

Directions

Peel the russet potatoes and cut them so they will fit in the feed tube of a food processor. Cut ½ medium peeled yellow onion in half. Shred the potatoes and onion with the shredding disc of a food processor. (Alternatively, leave whole and grate on the large holes of a box grater.)

Transfer the potato and onion mixture to a large bowl. Add the kosher salt and mix with your hands until combined.

Using your hands and working handful by handful, squeeze out and discard the liquid from the potato mixture, then place on a dry, clean kitchen towel. Gather up the sides of the towel to form a bundle. Squeeze again until no more liquid drips out.

Rinse and dry the bowl. Place egg in the bowl and beat with a fork until broken up. Return the potato mixture to the bowl. Add all-purpose flour, everything bagel seasoning and baking powder. Toss with your hands until thoroughly combined.

Scoop out the potato mixture by the ¼ cup (loosely packed) and shape into patties about 2 ½ inches wide and ½-inch thick. Place on a baking sheet in a single layer.

Heat vegetable oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over high heat until shimmering. Meanwhile, line a large plate or baking sheet with paper towels.

Using a thin, flat spatula (such as a fish spatula), carefully transfer 4 to 5 latkes to the skillet. Fry until the bottoms are deep golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Carefully flip the latkes and fry until the second side is deep golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer to the paper towels. Repeat with the remaining latkes. Serve with sour cream if desired.

Lauren Shockey is a contributor to TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to editorial@thekitchn.com.