Celebrated chef plans ‘really cool’ woodfire pizza restaurant in south Minneapolis

Steven Brown, the chef/owner behind venerable Minneapolis eateries Tilia, St. Genevieve and culinary partner of Hotel Emery’s Giulia, is creating a whole vibe for his next restaurant. Marrone’s (4250 Nicollet Av. will sport around 30 seats and build its menu around wood-fired pizza. In the back, there will be a courtyard like those little urban slices of outdoor dining found in New York City neighborhoods.

“I love small spaces,“ said Brown. ”Rooms that are intimate and really cool.”

For Brown, the ideas for what this particular space could become include a soundtrack: the music of 1977. That was the year that punk clawed its way into wider consciousness, disco was at its zenith, rock icons released some of their best music and the year a teenaged Brown first started really cooking.

The music lent inspiration. He wondered: What would a New York pizza restaurant that opened in 1977 look like now?

“I’m not talking about walking into a restaurant and seeing Martin Scorsese’s New York, more like how would something from that time evolve into modern times?”

The answer is probably a pizza oven that looks like a disco ball, and he’s trying to make that happen. There’s also hope for a 1960s Malm-style conical fireplace — maybe avocado green mixed with modern chairs and a wine cooler wall installation that doubles as display and art. The chef is working with James Brown (no relation), whose restaurant vibe acumen is a distinctive part of the experience he’s built at places like Hi-Lo Diner and Myriel, on the style.

Marrone’s is still in its early stages, but the opportunity came when Steven Brown connected with Pavel Ushakov, who owns several buildings on the block. Ushakov asked the chef if he knew of anyone looking for a really cool restaurant space right next to the Lowbrow.

Ushakov has been cultivating that corner of Minneapolis, which includes Star Tribune restaurant of the year Bucheron, the just-announced coffee bar Silverbird and the newest Sebastian Joe’s.

Ushakov has a deep love for the kind of vintage brick buildings found in the area. “From the moment I saw this block in Kingfield, it felt very special,” he said.

When he first started looking for commercial real estate, many of the buildings were in disrepair. What had been Revival restaurant was shuttered and some storefronts were vacant. The Lowbrow eatery was steadfast in holding down the area and Ushakov knew that what it needed was good neighbors.

“I took it on as a mission to help improve this small gem of a neighborhood,” Ushakov said. He had visions of independent bookstores, funky coffee shops and kids riding bikes to an ice cream shop. But most of all, he envisioned more really great restaurants.

That prompted him to connect with Brown, one of the city’s most influential chefs whose restaurant resume marks eras in the city like Levain and all the way back to Rock Star. He’s been recognized by the James Beard Foundation Awards as a finalist or semifinalist seven times. In 2016 he was the Star Tribune’s Chef of the Year after opening St. Genevieve.

For Brown, the area has a personal connection. “I lived in that neighborhood from 1997 to 2011, right across from MLK Park. It’s near and dear to my heart,” Brown said.

He looked around and, with appreciation to Boludo, Northern Fires and Wrecktangle, he concluded that there’s room for more pizza.

The name is possibly his most personal yet. “When I first went to Italy, my friends said my name should be Stefano Marrone.” Marrone is Italian for Brown, and it does have a certain ring to it.

Marrone’s should open sometime in 2025. Creating that gorgeous courtyard will require some excavation and major construction that’s going to take time.

Patience is a virtue worth practicing. In the meantime, we have a soundtrack to set the mood, and three other restaurants to relax in while waiting for Brown’s next neighborhood hang.