MONTREAL – Normand Laprise gets goosebumps talking about polyester.
Considered the father of modern Québécois gastronomy, the chef was once a young restaurant trainee in France, where he stayed at a hostel with cheap, synthetic linens that made his skin crawl.
A couple of weeks into his stay, he ate at a two-star Michelin restaurant. “And I just put my hands on the tablecloth,” he remembered. “I said, ‘Wow, where am I?’”
Thirty-two years later, his downtown Montreal restaurant Toqué is still thought of as a trendsetter, luxurious Egyptian cotton tablecloths and all. But as respected as Laprise is in the Montreal dining scene, he does not have a Michelin star.
It’s not a snub; Montreal — like the Twin Cities — has never had its restaurants rated by Michelin.
That changes this month for the French Canadian city and its province, Québec, which get their first Michelin guidebook May 15, joining North American metros like Vancouver, New York, Los Angeles and Mexico City.
Not the Twin Cities. Though Minneapolis’ tourism board lists Michelin among its goals in its Destination Plan, and the Minneapolis Downtown Council put Michelin in its own 10-year plan, Minnesota’s road to Michelin is still uncharted.
With sights set on luring the prestigious restaurant rating system to our corner of the world, it begs the question: What does Montreal have that we don’t? We went to this French Canadian city to find out.