Simply translated, masa — the foundation for every perfect tortilla, tostada, tamale, pozole, arepa and gordita — means dough. It unites North and South America, defying any one cultural identity.
Masa is made from field corn, which is quite different from the tender sweet corn we eat off the cob. The kernels are nixtamalized — cooked in an alkaline solution, often water and lime — and then drained and ground into dough. It’s used fresh or dehydrated to make masa harina, which resembles corn flour and cornmeal.
Nixtamalization intensifies the corn’s flavor, draws out its nutrients — calcium, vitamin B3 and protein — and makes it easier to digest. Without nixtamalization, the corn lacks significant nutritional value. This simple process also explains why corn catalyzed the ancient Mesoamerican cultures, turning them from fledgling villages to thriving civilizations, and today it is part of a range of commercially produced foods, including chips, tortillas and tamales.
Yes, you can nixtamalize corn for masa at home, but it’s a slow, messy process. Why not just go for locally made masa products, especially fresh artisan tortillas made from rose, blue, pale gold, bold yellow and white heirloom varieties of corn that deliver serious depth of flavor.
Nixta, based in north Minneapolis, is among those leading a growing group of restaurants and producers from across the country that, thanks to innovations in equipment, are making their own masa with non-GMO heirloom corn varieties. The effort brings genetic diversity to the land, supports pollinators and bolsters growers in the Mexican and Native American communities.
Masa harina, also called cornmeal or corn flour, lends itself to a variety of familiar baked goods. Try substituting it for cornmeal in your favorite cornbread and muffin recipes. Mix it into batters for both savory and sweet pancakes. Add it to brownie, sugar cookie, biscotti and shortbread recipes, just substituting in ¼ cup of masa harina for wheat flour adds a lovely tangy note.
Fresh tortillas, now widely available in our markets, are intense, earthy, corny and softer and chewier than commercial tortillas. I serve them often — whether or not we’re eating Mexican food — with chicken thighs, roasted vegetables and filled with ham and cheese. They’re best warmed on a comal or skillet before serving to toast and enhance their flavors. (A comol is a flat, round griddle.) Don’t microwave the tortillas; they’ll turn soft and floppy. Once they’re warmed, wrap them in a dish towel and use right away. Store corn tortillas in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator for up to three weeks, or freeze them and then thaw before heating them on the stovetop.
Craft masa, much like sourdough before it, is a movement spurred by our hunger for ancient traditions and culinary wisdom. Humble, accessible and delicious, this elemental ingredient inspires new ways to relate to a timeless and dynamic food.
