What to expect at Altera, St. Paul’s newest dining draw

Altera slipped into the former Agra Culture space with discombobulating efficiency. Sitting in the dining room, it was hard to imagine how the contemporary elegant space with gold-dappled wallpaper and metallic globe light fixtures could have ever been anything else.

This fall, parent company InnerBloom Hospitality decided to move away from Agra Culture as a restaurant brand (only the Minneapolis Art Institute location remains) to focus on its program providing meals to area schools and day cares.

“Agra Culture first opened in Highland Park in 2017,” said Anne DeBeau-Melting, InnerBloom’s chief operating officer. “We loved the space and those giant windows. When we made the decision to say goodbye to Agra, we didn’t want to say goodbye to Highland Park.”

Instead, they fully reimagined the space into a sleek and modern neighborhood restaurant.

The large bar, entry space and dining room are dolled up with a mix of eye-catching wallpaper designs punctuated by large tropical plants that sway as people walk past. It’s the dining room equivalent of a dramatic quick-change, day-to-night dress reveal.

The decor is all its own, but the design feels reminiscent of other InnerBloom restaurants, including Excelsior’s Layline and Macanda and Josefina in Wayzata.

“We knew we didn’t want to be just a destination,” DeBeau-Melting said. “We wanted a space that could be all things to the neighborhood, whether you’re meeting a friend at 4 p.m. for wings, or want a cozy space for a night when you have a sitter or somewhere to host a birthday or celebration.”

The restaurant opened for dinner in December and soon added weekend brunch to the mix. So far, the neighborhood seems to have responded with full tables that linger over cocktails and meals.

Location: 721 S. Cleveland Av., St. Paul, 651-788-7009, alterarestaurant.com

Hours: Mon.-Thu., 4-9 p.m.; Fri. 4-10 p.m.; Sat. brunch 9 a.m.-1 p.m., dinner 4-10 p.m.; Sun. brunch 9 a.m.-1 p.m., dinner 4-9 p.m.

The food: Not beholden to any specific region or season, Altera’s menu is a cross section of the kinds of comforts modern diners will recognize. “Our menu is American,” said DeBeau-Melting. “American today is Pok Pok wings or our Johnnycake or a Cambodian steak salad.”

Chef Aaron Slavicek structures the menu with small plates, like crudos or salads, full entrees with global influences, which range from pasta to meat and fish, and a couple of burgers.

Starters globetrot with Cambodian steak salad ($18), hamachi crudo with basil oil and black sesame ($14) and crispy Thai wings that are an ode to the famous ones served at Pok Pok in Portland, Ore. ($18). For entrees, dan dan noodles have Szechuan peppercorns ($18), and fresh pappardelle is served with cumin-spiced braised lamb ($21).

The brunch menu also leans into modern American comforts, including golden, buttery biscuits with grapefruit butter; babka squares woven with chocolate; plate-size hash browns that taste like fine-dining Top the Tater, and a classic egg sandwich. Brunch prices average about $8 for starters to $17 entrees.

The drinks: Cocktails from beverage director Brian Kunz are a mix of elevated classics that lead with beauty, like the espresso martini that has just a hint of orange in the foam or the restaurant’s “Claudel,” a drink served with a vibrant raspberry/pink dragon fruit hue.

Cocktails are $14 with NA beverages ranging from $7 to $12. There’s also a selection of wines and local beers starting at $10 a glass for house wine or $5 for beers.

The vibe: The room decor and low lights give it a global dinner party feel, like Kenny G on safari with low-key sparkle chill vibes.

Accessibility: Street parking is available outside with a couple of spots inside the building designated for the restaurant, and the restaurant has a bus stop on the block. Altera is a single level, and there’s an accessible entrance through the parking garage.

Acoustics can be boisterous when the dining room is full, which it was on our visits.

Worth noting: Some InnerBloom restaurants, including Layline, Macanda and Josefina, opened with prolific consulting chef Daniel del Prado, who is no longer working with the company or those properties.