Olive oil cake, a popular Mediterranean dessert from back in the day, won over hearts for many reasons.
For one, baking with olive oil instead of butter was considered a healthier alternative. The ingredient also rendered light and airy results. And, its more neutral profile allowed flavors — such as the citrus in a lemon olive oil cake or chocolate in a chocolate version — to shine through.
Any way you slice it, the vintage dessert is making a comeback, noticeably popping up on restaurant menus as chefs create space for olive oil cake alongside crème brûlées and panna cottas. And judging from the places where we’ve spotted the dessert, it’s clear that not all olive oil cakes are created equal. Rather, local chefs are paying tribute to the classic, old-school dessert in their own sweet way.
St. Genevieve
The Paris buvette-style restaurant is all about the details, from sparklings on the drink list to oysters, pommes frites, le burgers and duck confit on the food menu. Dessert offerings include a citrus olive oil cake ($14) accented with dollops of lemon curd that’s so pretty and elegant you almost don’t want to mess it up by sticking a fork into it. But then that first bite of bright flavors, which includes candied orange peel, is so delicious that it makes you forget about that debate in your head as you decide you’re all in.
5003 Bryant Av. S., Mpls., stgmpls.com
Nightingale
The Whittier neighborhood hot spot is always distinguishing itself, and its version of the Mediterranean dessert in the form of a pistachio-infused olive oil cake ($11) is no exception. It’s served with crème fraîche and an unexpected side of blackberry sauce that gives it a familiar tartness while offering lots of depth.
2551 Lyndale Av. S., Mpls., nightingalempls.com
Kevin’s Italian Bistro
The former Brazin’ Public House in Eden Prairie was recently reconceptualized as an Italian restaurant, and chef Kevin Champlin is serving up Mediterranean desserts as part of the menu change. That includes a towering citrus olive oil cake ($10). It then gets complemented with a raspberry coulis, lemon zest and a tart limoncello cream that further whips this dessert into shape.
