A trip to Greenland’s capital reveals striking cuisine, fashion and architecture

The world’s largest island has always seemed oh-so-remote. Snuggled between the North Atlantic and Arctic oceans, Greenland is intimately linked with adventurous outdoor experiences, whether it’s gazing at otherworldly aurora borealis, mushing a team of sled dogs or sea kayaking in iceberg-studded fjords.

Recently, the country is also making global headlines not as buzzing tourist destination or for its melting glaciers, but because President Donald Trump has set his sights on acquiring it. That’s curious, given that Greenland is a former Danish colony and now a self-governing, autonomous country within the Kingdom of Denmark.

Whether this geopolitical drama makes Greenland more or less attractive as a destination, one thing is for certain: It’s no longer quite so remote. The international airport in Nuuk, the world’s northernmost capital, recently expanded its runway, allowing larger aircraft to land there.

Starting March 30, Icelandair will easily connect Minneapolis-St. Paul and its other U.S. gateways with Nuuk via a short layover or extended stopover in Reykjavik. And in June, United Airlines will connect Newark to Nuuk twice a week, potentially making the trip even shorter.

Many seasoned travelers might skip an extended visit to the city proper in favor of more far-afield activities. As an artist and designer, I was more keen on soaking up the creative energy of this wee capital city of about 20,000 people, or 39% of the population. Nuuk bubbles with an inventiveness that’s interlaced with the Inuit culture — Inuit people make up most of the population.

Hemmed in by jagged peaks and the vast Labrador Sea, this scenic city is a wonderful dichotomy of modern and traditional. Traveling from the airport to the Hotel Hans Egede, I marveled at the striking colors bursting from Nuuk’s windswept, grey stone-laden landscape, thanks to the clusters of traditional timber houses painted in a rainbow of vivid hues: azure, crimson, lemon yellow and orchid. I knew then my visit to Nuuk would be eye-opening.

Housed partly in a sea-green former church that still bears a soaring spire is the Nuuk Art Museum. The sunny interior holds over 1,000 mostly 20th-century paintings and sculptures by local and international artists, focused on the culture and landscape of Greenland. Works include more than a dozen lithographs of Mount Sermitsiaq — a nearly 4,000-foot-tall landmark hovering over Nuuk — created by Inuit artist Anne-Birthe Hove. She shows the mountain in an array of hues and its many personalities, whether cloaked in clouds or draped with snow. Another noteworthy piece is Kistat Lund’s brilliantly hued triptych painting depicting sky, mountain, fjord and plains in all their Greenlandic glory.

Continue your explorations on a self-guided public art walk. (Download a PDF guide or listen to their audio guide.) The 18 murals and sculptures on the route offer insights into Greenland’s heritage. One end of a nondescript concrete apartment complex is plastered with the portrait of an old Inuit hunter from East Greenland. Ten minutes away is another unremarkable building, except for the series of rectangular tiles, each painted with a large raven. Look quickly from one to the next and the bird appears to be flying.

Across the street is a small hill overlooking the Nuuk Fjord and the Colonial Harbour, where settlers first arrived in the 1700s. Perched atop is a triad of intertwined stone and copper pillars heralding the unity of the Greenlandic people and the beginnings of self-rule in 2009. From there you can walk down the stairs to the waterfront where low tide reveals a massive statue of the Mother of the Sea, a spirit who, according to myth, protects marine creatures.

Designed by Danish architectural firm Schmidt Hammer Lassen, the Katuaq Cultural Center is revered as a symbol of Greenlandic culture. Its structure takes inspiration from the landscape, with the sinuous larchwood facade referencing the wavy Northern Lights, and one wall’s triangular shape symbolizing icebergs. On a wall in the sun-filled interior is the impressive work of Buuti Pedersen: images of the moon chasing the sun, reflecting a prominent Greenlandic saga.

Katuaq serves many functions embraced by locals and visitors alike. A 508-seat hall books theater, music and dance performances, and shows films (with Danish subtitles) for the Greenlandic audience as well as Hollywood blockbusters. In the summer on the outdoor patio, you can listen to local bands performing classical to jazz to pop.

Qiviut, named for the Inuit word for the fine underwool of the native muskox, is a shop stocked with a treasure trove of unique woolen clothing and accessories. This highly prized wool is quite unusual: among the world’s warmest wools, and lightweight like a cloud. Mostly earthtone skirts, sweaters, leg warmers, fingerless gloves, headbands and scarves are just a few of the many luxury items fashioned from this wool. Anita Hoegh, Qiviut founder and co-owner along with her daughter Mia Chemnitz, perfected the method of sourcing the underwool of the muskox hides after the annual winter hunt.

Internationally known fashion designer and Nuuk native Bibi Chemnitz created her eponymous brand, melding cool, urban streetwear with Greenlandic traditions. Chemnitz lives half the year in Copenhagen, and half in Nuuk where she established her flagship store, Bibi Chemnitz: Outdoor Greenland, stocking her comfortable, fashion-forward garments. With bold designs, minimalist silhouettes and big prints, Chemnitz’s creations often tell the story of Greenland.

A t-shirt features a map of the Nuuk Fjord that’s almost cast as an abstract. An oversized hoodie bears a design inspired by Inuit tattoos (tanniit), which has long been a female practice, with patterns that are deeply connected with Inuit identity. Another striking image emblazoned on a hoodie is that of a fierce-looking woman wearing face paint as done in the Mask Dance (Uaajeerneq), an ancient form of storytelling.

Nivi, a multi-level tapas restaurant, takes its name from Niviarsiaq, the national flower — you’ll find these vibrant rose-purple blooms on their rooftop terrace in the summer. The contemporary architecture is a nod to Greenlandic geology and culture. Pine panels on the top floor harken to the boxes used to store fish on boats and the wood used to make traditional kayaks, while black concrete on the ground floor symbolizes the island’s bedrock. The floor-to-ceiling windows offer stunning views of the sea.

As you explore, deciding which level to settle in — the lambskin, fur-draped chairs in the lounge are especially tempting — you’ll notice taxidermy (a muskox head and a tusked walrus skull) on the walls, and a large polar bear painting by local artist Dorit Olsen. The tasting menu features locally-sourced items, such as flame-grilled reindeer accompanied by a red wine sauce, and muskox sliders topped with cheddar and aioli. (In case you’re wondering, muskox is lean and tasty with a strong beef-like flavor.)

Ensconced on the top floor of Hotel Hans Egede, Sarfalik treats diners to a contemporary space with awe-inspiring views of the city, sea and the twin peaks Lille Malene (Quassussuaq) and Big Malene (Ukkusissat). Taking the name of the Inuit word indicating waters rich in fishing, Sarfalik serves an innovative dinner menu with each item plated on lovely ceramicware. Napkins are tied with a narrow sealskin ribbon and walls display dramatic Greenlandic landscapes by local photographer Carsten Egevang. Among their tantalizing entrees: baked redfish accompanied by fennel risotto, and pan-fried wolffish drizzled with a shellfish-flavored hollandaise.

Travel editor Simon Peter Groebner contributed to this story.