On a brisk spring morning in Rimini, I stood in a hushed cathedral with 11 other hikers, waiting for a bishop’s blessing.
Ahead lay days of strenuous trekking through Italy’s mountainous Emilia-Romagna region to the Sanctuary of La Verna, a Franciscan monastery in Tuscany. Together we would climb and descend for 75 miles on paths, some rugged and steep. So far, we had walked just three flat city blocks. Given the rigors ahead, pausing for celestial aid seemed wise.
We were following in the footsteps of St. Francis of Assisi, but we weren’t on a religious pilgrimage. My husband and I joined this trip, offered by the Minneapolis-based nonprofit Esperienza — which reinvigorates rural Italy through philanthropy and tourism — to visit hilltop towns where trains don’t stop and tourists rarely roam. And we would take the slow approach — by foot.
We have been to Italy many times, but never like this, with each day framed by views of mountains we had crossed over, or were yet to climb. By the end, our legs were weary, and our hearts were full.
Climbing toward camaraderie
The 11-day trip included five hiking days, covering around 15 miles each, punctuated by well-timed days of rest and exploration. On the hiking days, our group of professionals and retirees, most from Minnesota, laced up boots and hoisted daypacks stuffed with lunches, water, trekking poles and rain gear (which, given blessed balmy days, stayed tucked away). Our luggage took the easier route, shuttled ahead by van. On tough days, a few hikers did, too.

We followed Alessia Ghirardi, our knowledgeable and cheerful Italian guide, through alpine fields, past olive groves with blankets of yellow flowers, and up daunting trails to remote monasteries and stunning views. Alessia introduced us to Italians, including restaurateurs who forage or grow produce and farmers tending newborn lambs with dogs that bounded down the road to greet us. Along the way, we urged one another on, shared Advil and chocolates, and formed a camaraderie built on a shared mission and many miles.
Then at each day’s end, we reached hilltop villages that struck me as well earned rewards, each one a gem.
Pasta-making and poetry
In the golden-hued fortress town of San Leo, on our first rest day, we learned to make pasta from the hotel’s cook, Antonella Cetrangolo, plus the hotel’s owner and Alessia. All are home cooks with a knack for fettuccine.