Exploring classic San Francisco, with the help of self-driving taxis

“Good to see you, Amy.”

That’s something I might expect to hear when my Lyft driver picks me up, I check into my hotel or I show up for a restaurant reservation. From a driverless car? Not so much.

But that’s exactly how I was greeted each time my husband, teenage son and I took a self-driving Waymo taxi through the hilly streets of San Francisco in August. Considering it was a highlight of our eight-day trip for my 13-year-old (who would rather have been back home playing Fortnite with his friends in our basement), we used it frequently to get around.

During our first few rides, I was uneasy about the autonomous vehicles (all-electric Jaguar I-PACEs), to which my kid exasperatedly declared, “Get with the times, Mom. Get with the times.” Fair enough. The more we used them, the more natural it became. I even developed a fondness for the ride-hailing service. It was a relief not to feel judged for short rides (again, those hills!), but I did miss insider travel tips from actual human drivers.

Of course, San Francisco is far more than the autonomous vehicles owned by Google’s parent company, Alphabet. We decided on the City by the Bay because of cheap Sun Country round-trip tickets (under $600 for the three of us) and a good deal at the classy Argonaut Hotel on the outskirts of touristy Fisherman’s Wharf.

The hotel was the perfect base to walk from for watching sea lions jockey for position on the floats at Pier 39, playing vintage arcade games at the Musée Mécanique (big thumbs up from the teen), trying In-N-Out Burger (parents disappointed, teen another big thumbs up) and marveling at the picturesque views from the towering SkyStar Wheel. While the wharf was fun, we spent most of our time exploring other neighborhoods. Here are four stand-out experiences worthy of a place in your San Francisco itinerary.

“The first thing you want to learn when you hit Alcatraz is keep your mouth shut and walk with your back to the wall,” declares the narrator on the captivating Alcatraz cellhouse self-guided-audio tour. Told from the point of view of guards and prisoners, the chilling story guides you through the infamous federal penitentiary located on an island just off the coast of San Francisco.

Active from 1934 to 1963, Alcatraz was home to big-time criminals including Al Capone, George “Machine-Gun” Kelly and Robert Stroud (aka the “Birdman of Alcatraz”). With the nighttime tour, the darkness elevates Alcatraz’s eerie vibe as visitors explore the island, the prison’s dilapidated cells, long haunting hallways, and grim dining hall. And if the weather cooperates, you’ll be treated to a stunning sunset.

While the Alcatraz nighttime tour was fascinating (it features programs only offered in the evening, and it sells out fast, so make reservations early) and the ferry ride fun, I wish the tour had included more about the lesser-known Native American history of the island, including the 19-month-long Occupation of Alcatraz.

We left the child at the hotel (big thanks to the Argonaut for having an X-Box), took a break from Waymo vehicles, and rode a Lyft to the North Beach neighborhood, which served as the Beat Generation’s epicenter in the 1950s. We started at the Beat Museum, boasting an extensive collection of relics from the cultural and literary movement’s writers, artists and intellects and those inspired by them.

I especially loved the actual 1949 Hudson Commodore car used in the 2012 film adaptation of Jack Kerouac’s 1957 novel “On the Road.” We were thrilled by an enlightening conversation with staffer Brandon and his excellent book recommendations, including “Minor Characters” by Joyce Johnson.

We then entered the iconic City Lights Bookstore, making our way upstairs to the poetry room, where we picked up some Beat classics by Lawrence Ferlinghetti, co-founder of the bookstore who died in 2021 at age 101, Allen Ginsberg and Kerouac along with a handful of works by unknown-to-us authors. We topped off the night by crossing Jack Kerouac Alley and grabbing a drink at Vesuvio Cafe, a famous Beat watering hole.

While a cable-car ride left me with motion sickness, the Painted Ladies Tour wasn’t exactly a smooth ride, either, but it was way more enjoyable. Led by our guide/driver, Chris, a Minnesota native, we joined four other tourists for a history-packed drive around the city in the ultimate hippie mobile — a vintage, flower-power-decorated VW bus named Daisy. I doubted whether old Daisy would get us up those steep hills and down the hairpin turns of Lombard Street, but she did without a hitch.

The tour took us through various parts of the city, with photo stops at the Golden Gate Bridge and the lovely row of Victorian homes known as the Painted Ladies. As we approached, Chris played the “Full House” theme song for a delightfully cheesy moment that tickled this pop culture lover.

We decided to rent a car to explore beyond the city. Before we left for Muir Woods National Monument — an easy 40-minute drive over the Golden Gate — I made the required advanced parking reservation (this is a must). Once we arrived, the majestic redwood trees, intoxicating fresh air and quiet calmness felt like a fairy tale. My biggest regret was not having enough time there to let the magical setting fully devour my senses.

After Muir Woods, we journeyed to Point Reyes National Seashore, deciding on a few shorter jaunts, including the Cypress Tree Tunnel, the Point Reyes Lighthouse for whale watching from the shore, and the Chimney Rock trail and its elephant seal overlook. Pro tip: Don’t forget the binoculars.