How a culinary journey to Vietnam led me back to the Twin Cities

It was pitch dark, and things had cooled down in the town just outside of Ho Chi Minh City, the former Saigon, where I was staying with relatives.

Because food was never too far from our minds, my aunties and uncles said, “Let’s go eat.” It was a second dinner, essentially, to the family-style feast we had just hours before. I hopped on the back of my aunt’s motorbike and the family headed out, joining the sea of beeping motorcycles and cars, the cool breeze a welcoming respite from the hot, humid air earlier that day.

We pulled up to a night stall, where two women were ladling bowls of beef noodle pho from a humongous pot; the scent of simmering bone broth floated in the air. After what seemed like only a minute or two after ordering, piping hot bowls and a platter of herbs, chiles and citrus were placed in front of us at the rustic, pub-style tables where we were perched. It was moments like these when I was in my happy place.

I was born in the United States. My family landed here in 1975, at the end of the Vietnam War, eventually calling the St. Croix Valley area our new home after being sponsored by local churches. Trips to Vietnam have been a chance for me, a lover of all things Minnesota Vikings, hot dish and Radiohead, to zoom in on another side of my culture. On my first trip to Vietnam more than 25 years ago, I promised myself I’d be back to further explore this beautiful country and culture. November marked my sixth trip.

Marking the 50th anniversary of the fall of Saigon, which occurred on April 30, 1975, has made me reflect on how the country is firmly rooted in tradition while constantly evolving.

In 1986, Vietnam implemented a policy, called Doi Moi, that opened up the country. Among the lasting impacts was making Vietnam a popular destination for tourists and Vietnamese living overseas. Chef Anthony Bourdain helped magnify this wanderlust, featuring the Southeast Asian nation several times on his various television series, noting how Vietnam was one of his favorite countries to visit.

From the heartbeat of bustling Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh to the lush landscapes of the Central Highlands and the lantern-strewn Hoi An, where time seems to have stopped, I couldn’t agree more.

I often get asked what dishes to try when traveling to Vietnam, or where to get the most authentic versions locally. Start by seeking out these 10 essential Vietnamese dishes in the Twin Cities for a tasting tour of the culture.

Considered the unofficial national dish of Vietnam, the rice noodle soup is a must. It’s the burger of Vietnamese food and can be found everywhere — and everyone has an opinion. Someone once told me that the best version of a dish is the one that reminds you the most of what you grew up on. For me, a great bowl of pho starts with a glistening broth, signaling it’s been simmered for hours just like I remember from my childhood, when my grandmother made it every Sunday.

Of the cuts of beef that are offered, I usually opt for the thinly sliced beef (pho tai). Then it’s about flavors that complement — star anise, cinnamon, cloves or other earthy spices — but don’t overpower that bone broth goodness.

Locally, I’ve found that best balance at Pho Pasteur. But we seriously have a delicious pho game in the Twin Cities, and it’s hard to go wrong. I’d happily drive across the metro to seek out those at iPho, Stone Pho, Pho Mai and the Lotus. The ones that are among my colleagues’ favorites, Pho 400 and Quang Restaurant, are also solid, with the broth a bit sweeter.

iPho by Saigon, 704 W. University Av., St. Paul, iphomn.com; Pho 400, 400 Old Hwy. 8 NW., New Brighton, pho400.com; Pho Mai, two locations: Asia Mall (12160 Technology Drive, Eden Prairie) and Dinkytown (319 14th Av. SE., Mpls.), phomai.com; Pho Pasteur, 694 N. Snelling Av., St. Paul, phopasteurvn.com; Quang Restaurant, 2719 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., quang-restaurant.com; Stone Pho, 1885 Perimeter Drive, Roseville, 10340 NE. Baltimore St., Blaine, stonepho.com; the Lotus, 113 W. Grant St., Mpls., lotusdtmsp.com, and 13704 83rd Way N., Maple Grove, lotusmaplegrove.com

The history of French colonization in Vietnam brought many things, from architecture with grand facades to the bành mí sandwich. The fusion of the French baguette slathered in pâté and mayo, then topped with deli or grilled meat, is still a mainstay. Over time, the Vietnamese baguette has evolved to be softer and pillowy in the middle with a crisp shell that shatters into a million pieces with each bite. The modification was a way to make the baguette last longer — the traditional French version dried quickly in Vietnam’s tropical climate, according to “Rice and Baguette,” Vu Hong Lien’s book chronicling the history of Vietnamese food.

When visiting, my favorite bành mís are from sidewalk carts. And bonus: They’re usually some of the most budget-friendly items around.

In the metro, my hands-down favorite is from Trung Nam Bakery for the airy-on-the-inside, shatters-on-the-outside bread dolloped with pâté and mayo, then stuffed with barbecued pork, ham, pickled carrots, cilantro and jalapeño. Also topping my list: Lu’s Sandwiches, Mi-Sant Kitchen and Bakery and iPho. They also get the bread right and make decadent house pâté. Jasmine Deli, which recently reopened post-pandemic with limited lunch hours, and Ai Hues are also winners.

When ordering at a new spot, I start with the classic, typically traditional Vietnamese deli meats and terrines or marinated grilled pork. For vegetarians, most places have filling options such as fried tofu or mock duck. Standard bành mí includes jalapeños; if heat isn’t your thing, ask for one without.

Ai Hues Bakery & Deli, 432 W. University Av. W., St Paul; iPho by Saigon, three locations including 704 W. University Av., St. Paul, iphomn.com; Jasmine Deli, 2532 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., jasminedelimpls.com; Lu’s Sandwiches, three Minneapolis locations, including 2624 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., lusandwiches.com; Mi-Sant, 8540 Edinburgh Centre Drive, Brooklyn Park, and 1881 W. Hwy. 36, Roseville, mi-sant.com; Trung Nam French Bakery, 739 W. University Av., St. Paul, trung-nam.squarespace.com

Vietnamese egg rolls have a distinct identity with alternate fillings, such as glass noodles, from some of their counterparts. And my grandma’s egg rolls became somewhat famous in the St. Croix River Valley area.

She had it down to a science. Ground pork was blended with glass noodles, matchstick carrots and mushrooms. Mixing in eggs added moisture and fluffiness. Then, they were rolled airtight using an egg wash seal. The technique meant the egg rolls held together as they cooked to a beautiful golden crisp. Once removed from the fryer, the egg rolls went on mesh strainers with towel-lined trays beneath to catch the dripping grease, rendering the ultimate crispness. My grandma has since passed, but luckily my mom has carried on the art and tradition.

The next best thing to home-cooked egg rolls are the ones at iPho. Get it as an appetizer or make it a meal by ordering a vermicelli rice noodle salad with the egg roll option.

When I’m at the Lotus or My Huong Kitchen, where the hospitality at the latter is so personable you feel like you’re stepping into someone’s home, I also don’t hesitate to put in an order. The giant-sized, Minnesota State Fair-famous egg rolls at Que Viet and its hip, younger offshoot Em Que Viet are not like ones I grew up on because of their size and wrapper thickness, but the filling is wonderfully familiar.

iPho by Saigon, 704 W. University Av., St. Paul, iphomn.com; the Lotus, 113 W. Grant St., Mpls., lotusdtmsp.com, 13704 83rd Way N., Maple Grove, lotusmaplegrove.com; My Huong Kitchen, 2718 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., myhuongkitchen.com; Que Viet, 2211 NE. Johnson St., Mpls., quevietmn.com and Em Que Viet, 1332 Grand Av., St. Paul, emqueviet.com

Also referred to as Vietnamese crêpes or sizzling pancakes, this dish is always a treat. It’s more common in central and southern Vietnam, and the omelet-looking dish gets larger in size the farther south you travel, as noted in the travel blog Vietnam Nomad. I fondly remember being in awe of the presentation, the bánh xèo overflowing from the plate.

It takes a seasoned crêpe artist to perfect the consistency of the batter and cook it just right. The ultra-crisp edges should have a glistening yet sturdy middle to hold ingredients such as pork belly, shrimp and bean sprouts before getting folded in half like an omelet, albeit a gigantic one. But instead of eggs, bánh xèo universally gets its yellow hue from turmeric powder. The base is coconut milk and the starch is typically rice flour.

It’s eaten as a lettuce wrap: slice off a portion of the crêpe, place it on a bed of lettuce along with the provided cucumbers and herbs before dipping the wrap into nuoc cham sauce. Some places might include spring roll wrappers, which then become the outer layer of your lettuce wrap. In the metro, my favorite is the beautifully executed ones at Cam Ranh Bay in Burnsville, which I recently discovered thanks to a recommendation from a colleague. The bánh xèo at MT Noodles and Hoa Bien also transport me.

Cam Ranh Bay, 1006 W. County Road 42, Burnsville, camranhbaycuisine.com; MT Noodles, 8459 W. Broadway, Brooklyn Park, mtnoodles.com; Hoa Bien, 1105 W. University Av., St. Paul, hoa-bien.com

“It’s my new favorite soup,” a co-worker said after I introduced her to bún bò Huế when dining at a Vietnamese restaurant in the north suburbs. If you like pho, I often recommend this spicy, lemongrass-forward beef rice noodle soup as a next step. But compared with its counterpart that goes all-in on beef, bún bò Huế typically uses both beef and pork bones. And rather than a neutral broth, the dish starts spicy, courtesy of an annatto chile oil paste that’s also responsible for its red hue. The main proteins are a tender beef shank or brisket that then might get accented with bone marrow collagen, shrimp balls or other enhancements, depending on the chef. Rather than the flat, linguine-type rice noodles used in pho, these are round — the bucatini of Vietnamese rice noodles.

The best bún bò Huế I’ve had in my life is in Hue — it’s a must order whenever visiting the central Vietnamese city where the dish originated. There’s no lack of places that serve the dish, each taking pride in building the broth just as pho artists do.

Locally, the House of Hue at Eat Street Crossing tastes most like I remember from my travels. The chef is originally from Hue, so it’s not surprising that he cooks it up in authentic fashion. Bonus: House of Hue also ladles up a great vegetarian version. The one at Pho 400, which I recently discovered, is also now one of my favorites, served a bit spicier but with a bone broth that has just as much delicious depth.

House of Hue, 2819 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls., eatstreetcrossing.com; Pho 400, 400 Old Hwy. 8 NW., New Brighton, pho400.com

Bun cha: There’s a famous episode of “Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown” Season 8 in which the chef shares a meal of bun cha in Hanoi with former President Barack Obama. It’s a must-try dish when in the capital city, where the dish is believed to have originated. The smell of charcoal grilled pork patties is the best, and it’s served in a bowl of vinegary, citrusy and sweet broth. To eat, dunk just enough vermicelli noodles and herbs served on the side into the broth to coat and take a few bites. Add more noodles and herbs into the bowl and repeat, dipping in broth as you go.

There’s no lack of this famous dish at restaurants or sidewalk stands in Vietnam. I ate at the Bourdain restaurant, Bún Chả Hương Liên in the Old Quarter on this most recent trip, and it lived up to its hype. Locally, I’ve found the dish more elusive, but the menu at MT Noodles offers a culinary tour of different Vietnamese regions with dishes you don’t come across every day, such as bun cha. 8459 W. Broadway, Brooklyn Park, mtnoodles.com

Spring rolls: The appetizer with rice noodles, pork and/or shrimp wrapped in rice paper feels like you’re having a salad in handheld form. It’s an essential and refreshing Vietnamese bite and one worth seeking out. Most Vietnamese restaurants in the Twin Cities serve it, and I’ve honestly never had a bad one.

Com tam: Also known as broken rice platter, the popular Ho Chi Minh City dish of broken rice (small rice granules) is featured with various protein options for mixing and matching. I’m a fan of ordering it with steamed pork loaf — exclusive to this dish — if it’s available, along with grilled pork and shrimp. For me, a great com tam is one with flavorful and wonderfully grilled proteins as well as a fragrant chive oil that’s typically drizzled over the rice. You can then add nuoc cham dressing for added flavor according to taste. Pho 126 is my favorite, while Pho Tau Bay and Tay Ho also prepare this dish beautifully.

Pho 126, 12341 NE. Aberdeen St., Blaine, bit.ly/PhoViet126; Pho Tau Bay, 2837 Nicollet Av. S., Mpls, photaubaymn.com; Tay Ho, 302 W. University Av., St. Paul

Bun salad: The cold vermicelli rice noodle bowls with herbs and nuoc cham (fish sauce-vinegar-lime dressing) are as common in Vietnam as they are refreshing. They’re similar to broken rice platters in the way that they’re served, with choices of piping hot proteins such as grilled meats and seafood. I love this dish in a combo with egg rolls, grilled pork chops and/or shrimp when available. And like with spring rolls, most places that serve this are reliable.

Vietnamese coffee: According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee-producing country after Brazil, so it makes sense the country takes its coffee game seriously. Traditional Vietnamese coffee is strong and sweet. It is typically brewed using a metal filter that drips into a mug filled with sweetened condensed milk, but over the years I’ve noticed that this practice is becoming less common locally. As far as quality and execution, I’m loving the javas at Caphin, which sources its beans from Vietnam and serves up a variety, from traditional to trendy egg and coconut coffees that seemed to be everywhere during my most recent trip to Vietnam. 4503 France Av. S., Mpls., caphinmpls.com

It’s an exciting time in the Vietnamese culinary landscape as this next generation offers creative, modern takes on the cuisine, casting ingredients into a whole new light. During this last trip, cocktails were getting mixed with foraged finds and served on smoky, salt shrimp-rimmed martini glasses. Pizzas paid tribute to the flavors of pho while pastas came with spicy crab cream sauces. The local scene is just as exciting.

I’m loving the fresh take and coaxing of flavors at James Beard award-winning chef Christina Nguyen’s Hai Hai, (2121 University Av. NE., Mpls., haihaimpls.com), including chicken laab and Vietnamese shrimp toasts to just-as-modern spun cocktails.

 Em Que Viet is also worth checking out for its dishes such as chicken curry and crab pasta that get European spins while using familiar Vietnamese flavors.

And the newly minted Khue’s Kitchen (693 Raymond Av., St. Paul, khueskitchen.com), from the next generation of Quang’s Restaurant, is also one to watch with a spin on favorites that show up in the form of pork meatballs in tomato sauce and roast pork chili crunch fried rice.

These culinary minds are ushering in a new era while staying grounded in tradition.