MILAN — With global tensions escalating, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons want to change the conversation to something gentle, calm and nice with their menswear collection for next summer, previewed during Milan Fashion Week on Sunday.
''We tried to make a change of tone, from powerful to gentle, calm,'' Prada said after the show. ''Basically, the opposite of aggression, power, nastiness.''
''Sometimes it is good to reflect, and be a bit more calm,'' added Simons, her co-creative director.
Innocence reimagined
In that vein, the pair's latest menswear collection recalled childish innocence, opening with short shorts that were more precisely elasticized briefs, with pleated pockets, worn with a sturdy, sure-footed shoe and black sock and a crisp white buttoned-down shirt with a naive print of a sun and waves.
These panty-shorts were paired also with leather coats, long cotton shirts or fringed knitwear that give men access to the pant-less look already embraced by some female celebrities.
Freedom in form and color
A more serious double-breasted suit was worn with the sleeves pushed up in a get-to-work gesture layered over track jackets. Track pants with a side stripe or straight, cropped cotton trousers otherwise anchored the looks with leather jackets, car coats or knitwear.