In Cuyuna, you can peer into deep mine lakes on board a clear kayak

Crystal Kayaks and crystal-clear waters make for a perfect fall journey in Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area.

By Lisa Meyers McClintick

For the Minnesota Star Tribune
October 19, 2024 at 12:41PM
A fall paddle in a Crystal Kayak on Pennington Mine Lake in Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area. (Lisa Meyers McClintick/For the Minnesota Star Tribune)

When our clear kayaks arrived at the Pennington Mine Lake boat landing, images of Wonder Woman’s invisible plane popped into my head.

It was always strange to see Wonder Woman free-floating through the sky in her stars-and-stripes ensemble, riding in that see-through craft. It looks a little weird, as well, to see paddlers seemingly glide on their butts across the deep water that fills this former taconite mine, part of central Minnesota’s sprawling Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area.

My husband, Bob, and I, in sandals and bucket hats, stepped into our vessels. The so-called Crystal Kayaks, imported from tropical Florida, aren’t as comfortable as traditional kayaks, with slightly elevated seats. But we could adjust how much we wanted to see below us by sitting cross-legged or by stretching out our legs across the transparent hull.

Just a few feet onto the water, with a full view of weeds and buried trees, the clear concept seemed brilliant.

“Stick to the edges,” I told Bob. I’d paddled Pennington Mine twice before and remembered how eerie it felt the first time I peered into its yawning depths. The 62-acre lake drops to 259 feet at its deepest point. Water clarity averages 26 feet down, according to the Department of Natural Resources.

My second outing here had been on a paddleboard, which was ideal for seeing the ghostly branches of underwater trees with sunfish flitting about not far from shore. It was fine until I lost my balance. The steep wooded shoreline didn’t make it easy to get back on a board.

Mountain bikers ride over and paddlers glide beneath a bridge that connects mine-pit lakes in Cuyuna. (Lisa Meyers McClintick/For the Minnesota Star Tribune)

On this sunny and unusually warm Oct. 1, we passed a few other kayakers and a paddleboarder with her black dog along for the float. Sitting in the Crystal Kayaks, brought to the area about two years ago by Cuyuna Outfitters, we paused along the sunniest shore to watch the parade of tiny bits drifting beneath us: bright yellow aspen leaves, bronze pine needles, warbly air bubbles.

We spotted a sunfish flitting below and debated how deep the lake trout must be. Other paddlers passed beneath a small bridge where mountain bikers sped across and continued to Mahnomen, Alstead and Arco mine lakes, which together with Pennington form a 7.4-mile water trail.

We decided to stick to Pennington, especially after spotting a lone loon about 40 feet away. It sported a swath of white on its lower face, looking like a young loon or an adult already morphing to winter plumage.

We stayed still, calm and nonthreatening while I wished for telepathic powers to coax it closer. The loon called out, but opted to stay put.

I spent our paddle back to the landing fantasizing about watching that loon glide beneath our clear kayaks, sleek and skillful, on its way to fish in a former mining pit that’s now so much more.

What to do in Cuyuna

Mountain biking rules at Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area, about two hours north of the Twin Cities. Not far from the Pennington Lake boat landing, easy beginner loops help young and new riders get used to the rolls and turns of the red-dirt terrain. Best sound of the day: the shrieks from a little girl riding happily on a kids’ mountain-bike seat as her dad pedaled the trails (cuyunalakesmtb.com).

Cuyuna Outfitters in nearby Crosby rents regular and clear kayaks, paddleboards, canoes and more, and sells a variety of gently used camping and outdoor gear on consignment (cuyunaoutfitters.com). Red Raven in Crosby (redraven.bike) and Cykel Bike Shop in Ironton (cykelonline.com) rent, service and sell a variety of bikes.

Milford Mine Memorial Park north of Crosby offers a serene and poignant stroll across boardwalks and paths where interpretive signs commemorate Minnesota’s worst mining disaster. A shaft collapsed and instantly flooded the mine in February 1924, killing 41 miners. Only seven survived (crowwing.gov/294/Milford-Mine-Memorial-Park).

The setting sun illuminates the downtown main street that has both shops and restaurants catering to the mountain bikers who flock to the area for the Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area, Wednesday, Oct. 4, 2023 in Crosby, Minn. The Man High mural is a reference to the 1957 launch of Manhigh II by Major David G. Simons in August 1957, launched from Portsmouth Mine in Crosby. ] ANTHONY SOUFFLE • anthony.souffle@startribune.com
Downtown Crosby, Minn., has shops and restaurants catering to the mountain bikers who flock to the area for Cuyuna Country State Recreation Area. (Star Tribune/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Where to eat

In downtown Crosby, Victual’s handmade ice cream with flavors such as lavender honey with sunflower seeds and strawberry with goat cheese and balsamic make this a regional destination, but the shop also curates artisan cheeses, crackers, charcuterie and everything else for gourmet picnics and happy hours (shopvictual.com).

Two blocks off the trail in Ironton, the Hudson Smokehouse opens its front garage door for an open-air feel on warm days and sets up an outdoor fire pit for the cool days when diners stop by for salads, deli sandwiches on wild rice bread, shareable charcuterie, a newly expanded menu with smoked ribs, brisket and meatloaf, and a variety of cocktails (hudson218.com).

High Wheel Confectionery and Coffeehouse in Ironton brings together three floors of indulgences: coffee, fudge and truffles, candy and ice cream, gourmet popcorn, a craft soda cellar, and plenty of games, puzzles and toys for unplugged getaways (facebook.com/highwheelconfectionery).

Red Raven in Crosby combines its bike rentals with a cafe making breakfast sandwiches and burritos, grilled sandwiches, and a variety of hot and cold coffees, teas and smoothies (redraven.bike).

Edgar and Stephanie Morales converted the dilapidated former Emanuel Lutheran Church into the boutique Sanctuary hotel in Crosby. (Anthony Souffle/The Minnesota Star Tribune)

Where to sleep

Crosby continues to expand lodging options, including 16 guest rooms at Crosby Lofts above businesses in historic Main Street buildings (crosbyloftsmn.com). The half-dozen rooms at Cuyuna Lakes Stay include some with kitchenettes (cuyunalakesstay.com). The Sanctuary has eight guest rooms and a shared great room in a transformed 1950s church (thesanctuarycrosby.com).

More information

Find more details on where to go and what to do at cuyuna.com.

St. Cloud-based freelance writer/photographer Lisa Meyers McClintick is the author of “Day Trips From the Twin Cities.”

about the writer

about the writer

Lisa Meyers McClintick

For the Minnesota Star Tribune